So, I can access the wp-admin and the database now, but the site bit is still blank… weird.
This time it was Indian spammers rather than Chinese spammers, exacerbated by my host’s good-really-I-know-but-still-infuriating security policy, my lack of access to computers that aren’t insanely locked down and/or that don’t access the internet, and the increased curmudgeonlyness of householders with wifi.
In related news, temporary accommodation sucks, even when it’s very nice temporary accommodation that you’re living in for timing reasons rather than homelessness reasons.
Update: well, that seems to be working OK now. Unix file permissions are, to a close approximation, the most annoying things in the world.